GETTING AROUND
Sam-lor
For relatively short distances, you can take a sam-lor (pedaled tricycle) for Bt20 - Bt30 per head. Fare may go up to Bt40-Bt50 for longer rides.

  

 Tuk-tuk
You may also take a motorized sam-lor, also known as tuk-tuk. Rates are not standard but the ride is quicker. Remember, always bargain with a smile.

Red pick-up cab
The most common means of transport is the red cab, which looks like covered pickup trucks where passengers sit on back benches. Sometimes, these red cabs are mistaken for regular buses because of their size. Others use it as a communal taxi.  Before boarding, ask where it is going. Pay the driver Bt15 if there are other passengers. If not, tell him where you’re going and ask how much would it cost. Don’t hesitate to bargain
 
Airport transfers
To get to or out of the airport you can take a private limousine or a song-taew (red pick-up cab). Most hotels provide airport transfers. train transfers

The Chiangmai-Bangkok route is serviced by three classes that operate from 5am - 10pm. These are the Rapid (Bt421, Bt471); Sprinter (Bt481) and Special Express (Bt611, Bt681, Bt1,193) classes. Phone reservations are not accepted. Call 053-247-462 to check seat availability, 053-242-094 for advance trip schedules, and 053-245363/-4 for same-day trips.  Or call the Chiang Mai depot on Charoenmuang Road at 053-244795 for more information.

Bus transfers
Arcade bus station. The arcade is located on the eastern end of Kaew Nawarat Road near the super highway intersection (Highway 118). Call 053-242-664 to check schedules. The bus trip from Chiang Mai to Bangkok takes about nine hours. One-way fare is from Bt403–Bt605. Most bus companies provide transfer services to and from the Arcade. The majority of bus companies are located at the Anusarn Market and Saeng Tawan Cinema areas.

Chang Puak Bus Station: Located on the southern section of Chotana Road, (053-211-586). Here, buses leave for Chiang Rai via the northern route (Highway 107), passing through Mae Rim, Mae Taeng, Chiang Dao, Chaiprakarn, Fang, Mae Ai and Thaton from where passengers can take a long-tail boat to Chiang Rai : Chiang Mai-Tha Ton, Bt90 (fan); Chiang Mai-Om Koi, Bt110 (fan);  Chiang Mai-Fang, Bt120 (air-con van). Fare to other destinations depend on distance.

THE THRILLS THEY CALL WHITE WATER RAFTING

THE TRILLS THEY CALL WHITE WATER RAFTING
For 36 hours, participants try to navigate numerous rapids
Whether you're looking for adventure or prefer a quiet, relaxing journey, there's no better way to explore some of northern Thailand's most spectacular sights than by navigating its rivers on board an inflated or bamboo raft.

The whitewater-rafting season begins during the rainy season in mid-June and can last until late January. That's also the time when Thai Adventure Rafting offers exciting trips down the Pai river, the only way through Mae Hong Son's Lum Nam Pai Wildlife Sanctuary. For the next 36 hours, participants try to navigate numerous rapids while marveling at the surrounding wilderness.

Two rivers closer to Chiang Mai also offer the same experience. The Mae Jaem River that flows through Ob-Luang National Park has a number of grade four rapids, while the Mae Taeng River, flowing through Hui Nam Dang National Park, is ideal for a short day trip.

It takes a bit of courage to take on the elements, but the task is made easier with the availability of a good boat, an experienced guide, and a change of dry clothes. For those who want added thrill, try a kayak or a boogie board instead.

If whitewater rafting strikes fear into your heart, then the alternative would be bamboo rafting. Most trekking packages offer it as part of their itinerary

Just past the Mae Rim, Mae Sa and Mae Taman rivers are a couple of starting points for a leisurely trip. Cast off at either Mae Sa Elephant Camp and Mae Taman Rafting & Elephant Camp and just let the raft float at a lazy pace. As it drifts with the current, the stillness is broken only by the sound of the water splashing against it

From the forest, one hears the distinct screeches of different birds and shrill cries of monkeys. The last village now seems far behind and all around, only trees, rocks, and endless water are visible. Yes, it is the silence that accompanies this exciting trip that stays in the memory.

THAI BOXING ART

THAI BOXING ART
When professional fighters around the world armed with their respective fighting style pummel on the ring, Muay Thai destroys all challengers

Once upon a time a Thai prisoner of the Burmese army was bidden to win his way out of captivity in a bout. Early chronicles mentions his name as Nai Khanomtom, who single-handedly knocked to the ground about a dozen of Burmese fighters using bare hands, feet and elbows. That is where we start to trace on record about Thailand's national sport the Muay Thai.

Although our estimates of the time of its origin go back about 2,000 years ago (apparently from China and India), the sport has been mostly popularized when King Naresuan institutionalized the art for Thai warriors as a form of defense in unarmed combat. In fact, it was the favourite sport of kings.

A story goes that when King Sen Muajing Ma died, his two sons contended for the throne in this way, Muay Thai. And some of the kings during the Ayutthaya period excelled in the art. Most popular story is that of the King Phra Buddha Chao Sua, who loved to disguise him as a commoner to get access into the ring and even defeated the national champion.

So far those are well-rounded epic traces of this world-renowned and most ferocious and deadly martial art widely known as "Thai Boxing" or "Muay Thai" in Thai dialect. It is the fastest growing martial art in the world and it has the reputation of having the most murderous kicking techniques where hardly a year passes that no one is get killed. When professional fighters around the world armed with their respective fighting style pummel on the ring, Muay Thai destroys all challengers. So this probably has inspired Jean-Claude Van Damme, Chuck Norris and the rest.

Each fight starts with both corners performing a ritual, limbering up routine as a way of honouring and paying homage to their trainers. The ritual dance is Rum Muay Thai. It's a sacred talisman earned after years of dedication to the art. The dance starts with "wai kru", you will see them kneeling and bowing on canvass three times, which represents an act of respect to the "boxing spirits" or their teacher. This may round up the ritual after which the headbands are removed and the fight begins. Many observed that you might know beforehand who is going to win by viewing the way they perform the rituals.

And the powerful kick starts. Any part of the body except the head is used. The knockout blows can come everywhere. But movements are with graceful swiftness and artful pummeling. The blows are defined but always come in surprises. Elbows and knees are more decisive and are considered the best tools in inflicting pain and defeat to an opponent. Although punching is taken as the least effective form of attack, it is indeed the best-coordinated blow to conceal a quick, powerful and fatal kick. A winner is awarded for a knock-out or a points decision given bay panel of judges.

Each fight consists of five rounds of three minutes with a two-minute break between rounds. Accompanying the fight is music stimulated by action in the ring, rising and falling as the boxers battle it out. Throughout the fight is a never-ending surprise.

Today, Muay Thai can be seen all over Thailand, at venues ranging from hastily thrown together rings at village fairs to modern air-conditioned stadiums of international standard. It is a must-see in any tourist agenda.

 Where to watch Thai Boxing
Muay Thai (Thai Boxing)
Gawila Boxing Stadium, Charoenmuang Road: European Boxer and Thai Boxer. Most exciting & interesting flight in town. The standard stadium only one in Chiangmai. Ticket Bt400 will also be sold at stadium every Friday. Start at 7.30 p.m. Timetable can be change without prier notice, please contact Mr.Dang at 09-852-6947.Where to learn Thai Boxing

Lanna Muay Thai, 64/1 Huay Kaew Road. Tel / Fax. 053-892102: Muay Thai is Thailand home grown martial arts. As a sport, it is more exciting that ordinary boxing and more effective as a form of self-defense. It has English - speaking instructors and the fee is just Bt250 a day. Open daily 6 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Soonkeelavetket Gym (Chay-Yai-Gym)
Chiangmai-Lumphun Road, 800 m. from Maeping Police Station. Tel 053-282371, 01-950-6703, 09-434-5553, 06-524-8523, 06-093-5819: Muay Thai courses. Coached by Chay-Yai Sitheppitak and 10 trainers former superstar Muay Thai 7-10 years experience. Open daily 7 .m.- 6 p.m.

THINGS TO DO

 OVER THE EDGE  "BUNGY"
Another opportunity for thrillseekers to experience a rush of pure adrenaline
The cords are strapped tightly around your ankles. Then, you are asked to walk a few steps before plunging into the air. As the ground gets closer, you shout as your heart pounds and your pulse quickens. But just before hitting the bottom. you feel someone pulling you up. The tension is gone by the time you are lowered on to a bamboo platform and asked to lie down on a cushion. Your muscles are still tight as you recall the fear and excitement. You stand up slowly and contemplate what you have just done; a jump from the top of a 50-meter high tower.

Bungee jumping is believed to have originated from the South Pacific, where young men have for centuries been jumping from the top of a bamboo platform on the side of a hill with only vines tied to their ankles to prove their bravery to manhood.

Modern day bungee jumping began in 1979 when a group of Oxford University students belonging to the Dangerous Sports Club leaped from a bridge in Bristol. Since then, a number of adventure companies have created bungee jump facilities throughout the world to give thrillseekers yet another opportunity to experience a rush of adrenaline.

The Jungle Bungee Jump located in Mae Rim, which is just 20 minutes from Chiang Mai, is the only professional and fully licensed bungee jumping organization in Asia. It has been operating in Chiangmai for three years and in Thailand for a decade. It is
owned and operated by Sudarat (Long) and Ian Rauner of New Zealand, one of only a handful of licensed jump-masters in the world. All of the equipment used meet professional standards.

"The thrill of bungee jumping is incomparable. The hardest part is summoning enough courage to step over the edge. Some people scream, some don't, while others want to scream, but can't," the two often say.
Fees include a T-shirt, pictures of your jump and a "certificate of courage". Call 053-290442 for inquiries.

ROCK CLIMBING, DISCOVERING NATURE

It is the ultimate sport for thrillseekers and adventurous souls

From below, you hear the two guides, Son and Kat, shouting instructions on what to hold on to and where to step. But all of their words seem faint as you concentrate on the task at hand and slowly feel a rush of adrenaline.
The ground looks distant and the rocks menacing. And yet, the top seems farther. A few minutes ago, you saw the guides scamper up the cliff like spiders. They made is look so easy.

You reach with your right hand for the flat ledge above your head and step on something called a "foothold", which is really just a small piece of rock with enough room for a toe. Then, it's time to shift weight to the right, stand on one foot and try to place your left hand on a big hole in the rock that feels like a bucket. Climbers call this kind of hold a "jug".
Amazingly, your right foot doesn't budge and you before you know it, a chain bolted on to the rock is within grasp. The voices of the guides seem louder; you stop for a second and take it all in. Standing 30 meters above the ground on the side of a cliff, only the valley and the rain forest are visible.

Welcome to rock climbing, the ultimate sport for thrillseekers and adventurous souls.
A sport that has made Chiangmai one of few places in the world that is a must destination for professional climbers, who never miss an opportunity to visit Crazy Horse Buttress, a 70-meter high limestone cliff located in the eastern town of Mae On.

Thanks to Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures, there are now more than 70 climbing routes in the vicinity.
They hold daily climbing trips and offer one to five-day courses (introduction, advanced, professional) conducted by trained guides with a combined 18 years of climbing experience. They also provide equipment rental services. Rates include, transportation, food, water, instruction book, T-shirt, and insurance.

 Trekking
A center for treks into the mountainous northern areas, especially home of hill tribes, Chiang Mai offers unique opportunities for the adventures. Lush hills and virgin forests are scenic backdrops that will make your trekking by foot or on elephant back truly memorable. The most popular trails are in Doi Inthanon National Park where over 300 bird species and a wide variety of orchids and other flowers can be seen.
 
Holistic healing for your wellness and well-being
There are plenty of stress relief services such as traditional Thai massage, Swedish, Shiatsu and Aromatherapy massages available in spas in the city and in resorts. A highly recommended place, which offers a renewed sense of wellness, is the Tao Garden located on Doi Saket. The Tao Garden offers appropriate therapy to balance the body and mind, thus enhancing a peaceful inner self. The spa offers five unique therapies including aromatherapy, Chi Nei Tsang massage, Ayurvedic oil, and acupuncture as well as body wrapping. Tai Chi Chuan offers an intensive 10-day course three sessions daily, 7.00 to 9.30 am, 1.00 to 2.00 pm & 4.00 to 6.30 p.m. Call Keith at 0 5330 6012 ext. 201

Cycling tours/ Mountain biking
Chiang Mai’s mountainous terrain and scenic destinations make the province perfect for both cycling and mountain biking. Many tour companies offer biking tour programs that include guides, food and overnight equipment. There are also an increasing number of travel agents providing full-day cycling tours to several interesting destinations.

The tours usually head north from the Asian Games Stadium through the Mae Sa Valley. Alternatively, it is possible to experience the scenery along Maenam Ping, which flows peacefully through villages, old temples, farms, etc. For those who are serious about cycling, a longer route to Chiang Rai is available which includes visits to small villages of Lahu, Lisu and Akha hilltribes. Call 053-234239 for more information.


Rafting
Chiang Mai also provides good opportunities for rafting using bamboo or rubber rafts, as there are lots of rivers and streams flowing throughout the province. Popular routes include Mae Kok, Mae Chaem, and Mae Tuen rivers. All rives flow through lush forests and hill tribe settlements. Contact your local agents for more information.


Boat trip
To see most of Chiang Mai from a different perspective, take a leisurely boat trip from the Nawarat Bridge. The trip operates five times daily, 10 a.m., 12 noon, 2 p.m., and 5.30 p.m.

Sightseeing in the air
An alternative way to get a bird’s eye view of Chiang Mai is to board a Micro-light craft to see the city’s environments and its localities. Flights are available daily from 6 to 12 noon and 3 6 p.m. The pilot, your guide, will point out and explain places of interest visible from the air. At the end of the flight, you will receive a photograph taken by a camera mounted on the planes wing. For more information, call 053-868460 or visit the Chiang Mai Sky Adventure at 143 Moo 6, Chiang Doi, Doi Saket sub-district.

Go-kart
Enjoy the speedy go-kart at 254 Mu 8, Hang Dong District. There are 4 types of rides available, ranging from beginners to competition models. Call 053-430059 for more information.

Cooking classes
Thai cooking classes are fun and delightful. An increasing number of foreign tourists join Thai cooking classes to learn new skills that can be used at home. The Banthai Cookery School offers mostly vegetarian cooking lessons, conducted in an old-Lanna style house. It is located on 11 Ratrchadamnern Road Soi 5, opposite Wat Pan On. Call 053-357339 for more information.

Alternatively, the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School (Tel. 053-206388) offers a 5-day course that includes an introduction to Thai ingredients, paste-making, a tour to the market and vegetable carving. Call 053-206388 for more information. 


Bird Watching
Endowed with rich natural deposits, Chiang Mai has a lot to offer to bird lovers. Its forests, perfect wildlife sanctuaries, are good observation spots for bird watching activities. Among several popular places are Doi Inthanon and Doi Suthep. 



Elephant Safari
See elephants at work and ride them into the forest, where you can enjoy being closer to nature. Maetaman Valley, just 50 kilometers north of Chiang Mai, provides an excellent base for this activity. The whole trekking package may include trekking on foot, bamboo rafting, whitewater rafting or kayaking, an ox- cart ride, and an overnight stay at a hill tribe village. Call 053-206047 for more information.


Yoga and meditation class
After a long adventurous day, one may choose to be pampered in one of the spas in the area. Alternatively, it is possible to achieve freedom from the routine and mundane life by finding your inner path through either yoga or meditation lessons. Take time to heal the body, mind, soul and spirit and let time stand still. Many tourists and locals have found the practice extremely beneficial and awakening. Contact Mahachulalongkorn Rajavidialai (053 278967) for more information on a 2-day program on meditation for foreign visitors. It is offered at Wat Suan Dok and Wat Phalad. Yoga enthusiasts can call 053-271555, Hatha Yoga Center for more information.

Jungle revving
Experience the rugged terrain of Chiang Mai on an All Terrain Vehicle (ATV), imported 4-wheel motorbikes. The tour offers daily treks. Call 053-939113 or visit MAC ATV Tour at Km. 10 Mae Rim Samoeng Road. (near the Maesa Elephant Camp)

THINGS TO SEE

Doi Inthanon  National Park Orchid and wild bird sanctuary

This 1,005-square-kilometer park is located on Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain. It is part of a mountain range that runs across Nepal, Bhutan, Myanmar and Northern Thailand. The dense forest abounds with lichens and wild orchids – and wild birds. The best time to see its waterfalls is May through November. For wild flowers, it is December through
February. For birds, it’s November through March. Getting there: Travel 58 kilometers west of Chiang Mai via Highway No. 107 to Chom Thong, then turn right intoHighway No. 1009 and continue a further distance of 48 kilometers along Highway No. 1009 to the summit. A good but rather steep asphalt road takes visitors up, thus the vehicle must be in good condition. Visitors will pay an entrance fee at Km. 8.

 HMONG VILLAGE Splendid tribal lifestyle

This Hmong village has preserved its simple but splendid traditions and lifestyles. The village can be reached by taking a left turn at Km.12 and proceeding for seven kilometers. Only four-wheel vehicles in good condition can make the trip. Along the route, you can visit resorts, including Mae Sa Valley, Mae Sa Resort (which offers a nine-hole golf course), and Kangsadan Farm.
  

 MOUNTAIN ORCHID
Located at Mu1 in Rim Tai in the Mae Rim district, this plantation has been around for over 20 years. It breeds a huge variety of orchids using new technology. Call 053-297-343 beforehand if you want to visit.

MAE SA WATERFALL
This famous eight-tiered waterfall is located at Km. 7 along the Mae Rim-Samoeng route. Its towering trees help make the place breezy throughout the year. It is an ideal recreational spot for both residents and visitors.
Queen Sirikit Botanical GardenSiikit Queen Sirikit Botanical GardenQUEEN BOTANICAL GARDEN

Located near Km. 12 along the Mae Rim-Samoeng route, the botanical garden has a fine collection of Thai and foreign plants. Visitors can drive around the area and stop by the Thai Orchid Breeding Center, the Herbs Museum and the Research Center. The garden is open daily from 8.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more information, call 053-298-171-5 ext. 4736 or 4739.

TRIBAL MUSEUM
The Tribal Museum is in King Rama IX Lanna Garden on Chotana Road.  This is an ethnology museum featuring the indigenous culture of nine hill tribes including Karen (Kariang), Hmong (Meo), Mien (Yao), Lisu (Liso), Akha (Iko), Lahu (Musoe), Lau, Thin, Khamu and the minority tribe of Malabri.  Each tribe possesses unique identity and culture.
The museum exhibits the ways of life, culture, beliefs and local wisdom of those tribes, which have been conveyed through artistic objects displayed in the museum. It is open daily to the public from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. For more information, call 053-210-872.
Soi Pui Tribal VillageDoi Pui Tribal VillageDOI PUI TRIBAL VILLAGE

This village is a Hmong village situated on an asphalt road about three kilometers from Phu Phing Palace and about one hour from downtown Chiang Mai. The village presents the typical lifestyle of the Hmong as well as a scenic view of Doi Inthanon.

ROYAL WINTER  PALACE
The palace is located further up the mountain about six kilometers from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. Its landscaped gardens are decorated with plenty of colorful, exotic flowers. It is open every day from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. except when the Royal family is in residence which is usually from mid-December to early February.


NIGHT BAZAAR
Night BazaarThe night bazaars are a shopping haven where one can find handmade products and souvenirs from many Chiang Mai villages and hill tribes. Local cloths and fabrics are reasonably priced. Shops and stalls open at around 6 p.m.

Chiang Mai cuisine

Chiang Mai cuisine
One of the best things about Thai cuisine in Chiang Mai is the abundance of snack foods sold by street vendors.
In the 1998 Farrelly brothers cult-classic film There's Something About Mary, Cameron Diaz (while eating a corn-dog), mentions to Ben Stiller that "there are not enough meats on sticks." The two continue their conversation by concocting visions of waffle ice cream cones filled with chopped liver. Well, you might not find the cone full of chopped liver, but if Ben Stiller and Cameron Diaz had spent much time in Chiang Mai, they would have found a whole new world of "meats on sticks" to satisfy their appetite.

One of the best things about Thai cuisine is the abundance of snack foods sold by street vendors. Many drive motorcycles / side cars around town selling meatballs, sausages, barbecue and other tasty treats. There is an incredible variety of meaty snack foods which are either roasted on a sticks or sold with long toothpicks which are meant to be used as forks.
One can stroll through the market and find moo bing which is grilled pork. The pork is marinated is special sauces with spices and grilled over hot coals. These cost a mere five baht per stick. Eat them with sticky rice and you have a fantastic late afternoon snack. These same vendors will also most likely have skewered intestines, pig's heart, liver and kidneys.

 Saigraw Isaan and saigraw woon sen are delicious sausage snacks. Saigraw Issan are small round sausages stuffed with pork, rice and spices. There is a regular and a sour (briow) variety. Vendors usually have long chains of these sausages tied together. They will grill many at one time and cut them into pieces for you. For only one baht per piece, these are a must. Eat these with pickled ginger and fresh Thai chilies for a bit of zip. Saigraw woon sen are longer, beefier sausages, which are stuffed with pork, rice, woonsen noodles and spices.

 KHANTOKE DINER PLUS A
GREAT CULTURE TREAT
The customs and traditions of Lanna kingdoms are still observed in the northern regions. In Chiangmai, the cultures of different peoples survive and continue to flourish despite the onset of modernity. If there is one common trait, it is the hospitality of everyone in the city.
Visitors will also discover that "Khantoke", or Northern Thai cuisine, is really something else. It is a mix of Thai and Burmese recipes handed down from generations, resulting in a unique style of dining that is still practiced up to today in the region.
"Khan" is the common word up north for bowl and "toke" means small. In essence, Khantoke literally is the tray used as a small dining table by Thais. Made of teak and quite common in Northern Thailand, it is often used during weddings, parties and other special occasions.

Khantoke
During celebrations, the food is placed on the Khantoke. They usually include fried chicken, burned pork, pork curry, fried cabbage, pork tomato-chili paste, fresh cucumbers, fried bananas, fired rice crispy and sticky rice that's served from small bamboo baskets.
In many restaurants and hotels, a Khantoke dinner is accompanied always by local delicacies and desserts. Cultural shows often held afterwards feature several dances like the candle dance, fingernail dance, sword dance, hilltribe dance, drum dance and traditional Ramwong. During a Khantoke dinner, everyone sits on the carpeted floor.

 THAI DESSERT
Thai desserts are said to reflect the three most important institutions in traditional Thai society -- home, temple and palace.
Every year, several celebrations are held to mark religious holidays and other important events. One of the most widely celebrated occasions worldwide is Christmas. Families gather

for a feast on Dec. 24 and 25 and renew acquaintances with one another. Gifts are given to each other and enmities are forgotten.
Houses are decorated with red and green paper, candles and other knickknacks. A tree is placed at a strategic location and decorated with small light bulbs and colored balls. Children eagerly await the arrival of Santa Claus.
In Thailand, families buy or make desserts to be given away as gifts to relatives and friends. Candies, cakes and cookies are just some of them. During the Yuletide holidays, every street corner has a vendor selling sweets.

food
In the past, people made desserts only during traditional and religious festivals such as Songkran, New Year, Buddhist Lent, as well as during special events and gatherings such as marriages, birthdays and other celebrations. Thai desserts are said to reflect the three most important institutions in traditional Thai society -- home, temple and palace.
The art of making Thai desserts was started by ladies in the royal court, or "chao wang". At that time, everything had to be prepared meticulously. For this reason, noble young girls were sent to the court to learn the art of cooking, flower arrangement and needlework.
The main ingredients used to make Thai desserts include rice, cassava flour, sugar and coconut. Sometimes, nuts, sesame seeds and seasonal fruits are added for flavoring.
Soon after, Thais learned to incorporate Western tastes into their desserts, resulting in the creation of "thong yib" [sweet egg petals], "thong yod" [sweet egg drop], "foi thong" [sweet egg shred], "moh kaeng" [sweet pudding] and "thong muan" [crispy roll].


KHAO SOI
It is great for breakfast, lunch or snack
Northern Thailand is known for its dialect, slow pace, climate, geography and cuisine. And one popular noodle dish that really stands out is khao soi.
Consisting basically of wide egg noodles, corn flour, curry powder and spices, it is often served with meat, dumplings, meat balls or vegetables. A side of pickled vegetables, spring onions and lime are also part of the meal. While the dish in itself is not too spicy, those who want a little more bite should add nam prik or chili paste. It is considered standard fare in Chiangmai and in other northern provinces, and can be eaten for breakfast or lunch, or as a late afternoon snack.

Khao SoiOne restaurant that serves some of the best khao soi is located near the night bazaar at 24 Charoenprathet Road Soi 1. Khao Soi Islam, a family-owned establishment, uses only the freshest ingredients and homemade spices, including curry powder that's made fresh everyday.
Three common side dishes that go well with khao soi are sarabao, a steamed breaded dumpling; khanom jib, which is quite similar to dim sum; and satay, skewered chicken or beef with peanut sauce, pickled onions and cucumber. Try also khao mok gai, rice and chicken cooked in curry powder.
For inquiries, call 053-271484.

 TASTE OF MIDDLE EAST
There's one restaurant where the menu includes not only Middle East food, but also Greek, Turkish and other Mediterranean delicacies.
Like every tourist town in Thailand, Chiangmai has a lot of restaurants that offer several kinds of cuisine, be it Indian, Italian or Chinese. Although most specialize in Thai and regional food, as well as seafood dishes, in general any foreigner will probably realize that there's at least one place that will have whatever he or she is looking for.
But there's one restaurant where the menu includes not only Middle East food, but also Greek, Turkish and other Mediterranean delicacies.
At Jerusalem Falafel, which has been in business for a decade, it's a must for guests to try a number of delicious treats that are unlikely to be found anywhere else in the country.
Start with the falafel platter that includes chick peas, hummus and fresh vegetables served with home-made pita bread. Then, there's meze, an appetizer that means "tasty morsels" in Greek. The meze plate can include baba ghanoush, a fabulous dip made of eggplant, garlic and olive oil; hummus, which consists of chick peas and garlic; and tzatziki, a yogurt sauce with cucumbers.
The restaurant also serves homemade feta, lebban and hamouli cheeses, salads, soups, chicken shawarma, fried schnitzel, grilled chicken breast and vegetarian dishes. It is open Saturday to Thursday from 9 a.m. - 11 p.m. and is located at 35/3 Mon Muang Road, just inside Tha Phea Gate.

SPICY AND HOT MEXICAN FOOD
Come of the most popular dishes are enchiladas, nachos and flautas.
One of the best attractions of Thailand is its cuisine. The combination of spicy, sweet and sour creates an incredible balance of flavors that can be sampled at every meal. While there's no doubt that Thai food is delicious, there comes a time when one desires something else. And fortunately, in Chiang Mai, there are several places that serve international cuisine.
A good alternative to Thai food that's also spicy and hot is Mexican food. Several dishes are based on rice and many recipes require the use of lime and cilantro, two common ingredients of most Thai dishes, the combination of which whets one's appetite even more.
Located in Chiang Mai are a number of Mexican restaurants where prices are reasonable and the atmosphere relaxing. One of them is El Toro Restaurant on Loi Kroh Road, which was originally a bar when it opened for business five years ago. As customers came, demand for food grew. Finally, after several months, the management decided it was time to learn the intricacies of cooking Mexican food. They began with a cookbook but eventually enlisted the services of a professional Mexican chef.

Mexican dishes
Some of the most popular dishes are enchiladas, nachos and flautas. Enchiladas are served with your choice of chicken or pork wrapped in a flour tortilla that is made more flavorful by cheese and special homemade enchilada sauce topped with cilantro. Nachos are smothered in cheese with jalapenos and refried beans. Served with fresh guacamole and salsa, they make a great appetizer. Flautas consist of corn tortillas wrapped with chicken or pork and cheese before being fried to perfection.
Other Mexican restaurants include The Art Cafe (opposite Thaphae Gate), The Apocalypse Cantina (Loi Kroh Road), The Chiang Mai Saloon (Loi Kroh Road) and The Drunken Flower (Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 1). The interiors of these restaurants are designed in the traditional Mexican way and diners will be serenaded by mariachi music.

CHIANG MAI, rose of the north (Part 2.)

 LACQUERWARE
Lai rot nam style
Originally, lacquer was used to provide a weatherproof finish that would preserve an artifact. It is derived from a tree (Melanorrhea Usitata Anacardiaceae) found in Northern Thailand and Myanmar. But because lacquer from the tree is scarce nowadays, petroleum based mixes are used.
When shopping in Chiangmai, look for lacquerware. Among the best buys, if you can find them, are 17th-19th century small boxes, chests and cabinets covered in gilt lacquerwork known as lai rot nam (literally, "splash water pattern").
Lai rot nam are antiques, although the term is used also to designate a special method of making lacquerware that is peculiar to Thailand.

 You can see modern examples of this type of lacquerware in many gift ships in Thailand. Manufacturers using this technique are still found in a few villages north of Chiangmai.
In the gilding process, the wooden object is coated with several layers of black lacquer that has been tapped from certain trees found in the north. Each coating is thoroughly dried for several weeks before the next one is applied. After several coatings, the design is drawn.
Parts that appear black are painted with water-soluble pigment. The handicraft is then coated with a thin, clear varnish on which the gold leaf is applied. When the varnish dries, water is splashed to dissolve the pigment. Only the gold leaf remains.
The original lacquer was shiny, but years of exposure produce a flat appearance, more charcoal gray in color than silky black.
The gold leaf applied at least a century ago looks pale, since time has worn away any uneven application. Modern reproductions vary from very pale gold to the suspiciously dark.
The National Museum and the National Library have a collection of genuine and antique lai rot nam cabinets.

 RESIN ITEMS
The pride of the north
Even the smallest Buddha image takes many hour of labor
Fat and smiling, unique even among all its brothers, a small Buddha sits contentedly on the shelf, its brown colored stomach gleaming, almost alive, in the light. This figurine and its companions are products of the ancient art of sculpting resin.
Resin dolls and home decor items are among the most sought after souvenirs available in Chiangmai. Although most are small in size and light in weight, they all stand out for their craftsmanship. Polished to a high gloss, these creations of petrified tree sap take on the appearance of bronze.
Chiangmai Resin's showroom, in the Kalare Shopping Center on Changklan Road, offers a wide selection of items that are all meticulously detailed. However, these represent only a fraction of what's available in the market.
Among the most popular are those with Chinese- and Thai designs. Other choices include religious symbols that are appropriate for worship altars or as plain decorative items, and animals such as dragons, dolphins, elephants, horses, and monkeys. Carved masks are also common. A number are quite unique, like nudes, sensuously designed ashtrays, and phallic sculptures.

Hill Tribe and Resin Dolls, with a showroom in the Northern Industrial Promotion Center and a factory in Mae Rim, is another leading producer of resin figurines. Primarily a wholesaler, the company accepts special orders and takes particular pride in the quality of its products. The Sangher Resin shop, in the Peak area on Changklan Road, is also worth checking out.

The process involved in the manufacture of such special items is painstaking, and requires knowledge on which tree species produce the best resin; what ingredients to mix with the raw material to achieve the proper texture and gloss; and what final shape a particular piece of resin can be molded into. Even the smallest Buddha image takes many hours of labor

 THAI TEXTILES
In Thailand, the type of textile worn often indicates the person's social status.
Thai textiles can be classified into two types based on the raw material used to create them; viz cotton and silk. Cotton is cultivated all over the country. It takes about six to seven months before the plants are fully grown to produce the seeds from where the soft fiber used for weaving cloth comes from. Cotton garments are suitable for hot weather.
Silk is made from the fine soft thread produced by silkworms. The threads are boiled to get rid of its color and then dyed before being woven. Good silk should be glossy and flexible.
The first silk yarn was introduced to Thailand in 1902 AD during the reign of the fifth king of the Chakri dynasty. Traditionally, Thai silk is made by hand, a method that is still practiced up to today. There are basically two types of silk: plain silk and mudmee, which involves a more complicated process to produce.
In Thai society, the type of textile worn often indicates the person's social status. Most of the common people wear cotton since the process of producing it is not complicated. Those who come from the landed gentry usually wear silk.
Today, Thai textiles are ideal gifts and souvenirs from Chiangmai. There are many shops that sell them. Most have big showrooms.
Recommended shops:
- Textile House
Located at 85 Kamphaengdin Road, it offers Thai and Lao silk, cotton and other fabrics, including hilltribe embroidery and decorative items. Open Monday to Saturday from
10 a.m. - 10 p.m. Call 053-206819 for inquiries.
- Huaan Mai Thai Silk
Located at 4 Charoenprathet Road, it specializes in handmade Thai silk, ready-to-wear garments and decorative items. Wholesale prices available. Open daily from 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. Call 09-430-1823 for more information.
- Phudtha
Situated at The Peak Project (Night Bazaar), it sells Thai silk, cotton, fancy fabrics made of marijuana pulp, traditional Thai, Isan and Lao fabrics and ready-to-wear garments. Open daily from 6 p.m. to midnight. Call 053-818147 or 09-838-1965 for inquiries.
- Heritage Silk Shop
Located on Changklan Road, it offers some of the finest silk in the country. Open daily from 10 a.m. - 10 p.m. Call 01-884-8958 for more information.

THE ANCIENT MYSTIQUE OF SILVER
Ancient civilizations have always valued silver and made it into jewelry, fashion accessories and ornaments. Its malleability also makes it suitable for use in other crafts. In Thailand, it remains today as one of the most sought after items by both locals and tourists.
Compared to gold, which has traditionally been associated with royalty, silver is less expensive and readily available almost everywhere. It has a certain mystique that reflects refinement and antiquity.
Traditional silver jewelry such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and belts, with its elaborate designs, are enough to enhance any attire.
Through the centuries, silver has maintained its popularity on the fashion scene. Today, it is now used as an art medium.
Silver in is known as "ngern" in Thai, the same word for money. Antique silver jewelry and ornaments were originally made from old Indian and Chinese silver coins, a bygone era when the trade between Thailand and these countries flourished.
The northern province of Chiangmai is the where the best silver jewelry is made by craftsmen who originally came from Burma centuries ago to escape war. The skill has been passed on to generations that even today, the designs remain detailed and intricate. Whether you are looking for jewelry to be worn with traditional or modern clothes, vessels to be used during religious ceremonies or plan decorative items, silver in Thailand will always be a good buy.
Originally, silver accessories were made of 92 percent silver, which made it on par with sterling silver. If you see the figure 92 on any silver piece, that is proof of its quality. Today, however, only 80 percent silver is used. Although the appearance is similar, it is not quite as costly.
Numerous shops in Chiangmai's Night Bazaar sell silver jewelry. On Wua Lai Street in the central district are dozens of shops that sell silver. In some, customers can actually see the crafting of silver jewelry and bowls.
 

CHIANG MAI, rose of the north (Part 1.)

 

 CHIANG MAI
Often called the Rose of the North, Chiang Mai is one of the few places in Thailand where it is possible to find in the heart of the city centuries-old chedis and temples next to modern convenience stores and boutique hotels.
It's a city with a beautiful cultural personality of its own. In addition, it's been blessed with much majestic beauty in nature.
The original city layout still exists as a neat square surrounded by a moat with vestiges of the fortified wall and its four main gates offering prime access to the old town.
With an altitude of about 310 meters above sea level, Chiang Mai is about 700 kilometers from Bangkok on the Mae Ping River basin. Surrounded by high mountain ranges, the city covers an area of approximately 20,107 square kilometers and is the country's second largest province. The city borders Myanmar on the north, Lamphun and Tak Provinces on the south, Chiang Rai, Lampang and Lamphun Provinces on the east and Mae Hong Son Province on the west. The terrain is mainly comprised of jungles and mountains, which are home to the hill tribes.
One of Chiang Mai's distinctive features is Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest peak, which is 2,575 meters above sea level.
Handicrafts of silk, silver and wood are timeless souvenirs for visitors. The people themselves are an unforgettable part of Chiang Mai. They are proud of the city's 700-year history.

Shopping Guide
SHOP TILL YOU DROP
After you've seen the sights of Chiangmai, it's time to indulge in some serious shopping, an activity that might take the whole day. This is so because there are so many things worth buying. From antiques to artifacts, celadon to silverware, there will always be something that will suit your fancy. Textiles, lacquerware, saa paper products, handicrafts, woodcarvings and so much more are all available in many shops.
Traditionally, bamboo is the preferred material for making several types of baskets and household utensils. These are among the most commonly sold items. As for antiques and excellent reproductions, Thapae Road is the place to go. Some shops here sell items of Burmese or Lao origin. These require a written permission from the authorities if they are to be exported.
When it comes to cotton, silk and other fabrics, choose from a variety of intricate designs created by weavers whose skills are incomparable. On Sankamphaeng Road, visitors can actually see them at work.
Hill tribe artifacts include jewelry, musical instruments, pipes and basketry. Several stalls in the Night Bazaar sell unique silver bracelets, necklaces, ceremonial bowls and other items. Check out also Wualai Road and Thapae Road
Some of the best teak woodcarvings adorn temples and Buddha images. There's also furniture and wall decor sold in Ban Tawai on the road to Hang Dong, which is the center of the industry.
Saa paper products can be found at the handicraft village of Bo Sang just east of Chiangmai. Umbrellas are the most easily recognizable products, although bags and stationery are now commercially produced.

BENJARONG, uniquely Thai handicraft
Benjarong is reflective of incredible workmanship, artistry and detailed designs
The word Benjarong literally means "five colors" in Thai. Using fine grit white clay, Thai artisans have been making these ornately decorated pieces by hand using skills handed down from one generation to another for centuries. They are usually painted with enamel and kiln dried. Most of them have floral motifs or cultural symbols, while some are accented with 18k gold.
There is no record as to when Benjarong production began in Thailand. But in the 18th century, Benjarong was exclusively used only in the Royal Court of Thailand. During the reign of Rama II, Thai artisans were producing Benjarong ware in Ayuthaya with most of them having the insignia of the Royal House.
Some designs on Benjarong ware depict ancient Indian mythological epics, a practice the Thai court inherited from the old Khmerr Kingdom. Favorite mythical creatures included Narasingha, a lion-hearted man; Kinnaree, a half-bird, half-human maiden; and Rajasiha, a fabulous lion. Designs then were symmetrical and repetitive and areas between creatures had flame or twisting vine patterns.
Today, Benjarong ware and ceramics are valued for their unique forms, designs, color schemes and sheer beauty. They are of the finest quality and are recognized by collectors around the world. These pieces come in various shapes that include vases, ginger jars, trinket boxes, dinnerware, tea sets and more. Sizes vary from tiny to large display pieces.

Benjarong is reflective of incredible workmanship, artistry and detailed designs. The cost of Benjarong depends on the number of hours and days needed by an artist or teams of skilled craftsmen to hand-paint individual pieces and full sets. Deft applications of color through single brush strokes result in a raised surface feel.
Several big and small factories in the provinces now make Benjarong to meet increasing local and international demand.
Benjarong products are available at several jewelry stores, handicrafts shops and department stores in Chiangmai.
Where to shop
- Heritage International Ltd. at 145-145/1 T. Sanklang, A. Sankampaeng (053-384559)
- Central Kad Suan Kaew Department Store on Huay Kaew Road, T. Suthep.
- Central Airport Plaza on Mahidol Road, T. Haiya.

COOL COTTON FABRIC
If silk is for the privileged, cotton is for the masses
High up in the mountains of Chiangmai's Jomtong district, villagers work endless hours harvesting cotton and turning them into the raw material used for making tapestries and clothes. Thus, it comes as no surprise that some of the best cotton garments can be found in this part of Thailand.

If silk is the preferred fabric of the privileged, cotton is used for making the daily wear of the masses.
There are a number of shops that sell cotton garments featuring unique designs. On Niemanhemin Soi 1 is See San Pan Mai, where Burmese and Lanna-style cloth as well as cotton are among the most sought after items. Thai-style wraparound skirts and Burmese longyi are displayed along with other ceremonial and formal clothes.
The new Northern Village zone at Central Airport Plaza is another place worth checking out for different fabrics. Several shops, including Jinapa, focus on traditional styles that have been altered a bit to suit today's demand for clothes that are comfortable and simple but reflective of culture.
Gong Shop on Loy Kroh Road is also visited often by tourists. It has an extensive selection of fabrics with different designs and patterns. There's always something for everybody. Even better, prices are reasonable.
For bargain hunters, there's the Gad Luang (Warorot) market, where fabrics made in Laos, China and Chiang Rai are sold wholesale before being transported to other shops in Chiang Mai.

Navigating around the
NIGHT BAZAAR
Knowing what to expect can greatly increase your chances of discovering the best buys
Undoubtedly, one of the most entertaining shopping experiences you can possibly have is at the Chiang Mai night bazaar on Changklan Road. Every night, small and large stalls open for business, selling everything you can imagine. Even if you don't buy anything, the experience of being there can be exhilarating. The merchandise sold includes clothes, toys, handicrafts, backpacks, CDs, videos and more. The fact is, everything can probably be bought at the night bazaar for the right price.
So how does one successfully navigate the alleys and bargain with the vendors? The key to seeing the most of the night bazaar given the limited time is coming up with a game plan before you even start. Knowing what to expect can also greatly increase your chances of discovering the best buys. There are usually three possible approaches to successful shopping at the night bazaar.
The first approach is for those who merely want to experience walking around the night bazaar. No preparation is really necessary. Once you have decided that you are just looking and not shopping, you can enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the market. You will surely see something you did not expect and make an unintended purchase.
The second method is for those looking for the usual souvenirs. These can include Coca-Cola T-shirts, Buddha images and statues, elephants, chopsticks, cutlery, dining and kitchen ware. These products are available almost everywhere, and finding something unique will be quite difficult. With items such as these, it is best to walk around and visit a number of shops to find out the best price. Once you decide to buy something, don't forget to let the vendor have the final say as a sign of respect.
The third method is for those looking for distinct products, and finding them requires a little more preparation. The night bazaar does have a number of unique shops selling textiles, wooden items and other decorative products. The difficult part is to know where to go.
The main night bazaar shopping complex is the place to go for original products and shops here tend to have bigger display areas. It is divided into six sois, or lanes. Visit Areeya Designs near the front on Soi 6. Its products are all handmade and designed by Ning, the shop's owner. Her products are among the best. She spends time looking around town for traditional cloth with Thai and Indonesian styles. Once she has found patterns she considers unique, she comes up with a design. Among the shop's most popular items are lanterns, handbags, book covers and made-to-order shirts.
Another shop worth visiting is Four Merge Home Decor. Located near the middle of Soi 1, its specialty is bamboo candles that have different designs. There are also aroma therapy candles whose sizes range from small table top candles to huge six-feet tall bamboo poles that have four tiers. Simple yet refined, they come in many different colors, ranging from dark brown to fresh bamboo green.
Regardless of your intentions, a stroll through the night bazaar can be the shopping experience of your life.