Saturday, May 28, 2011

CHIANG MAI, rose of the north (Part 1.)


 CHIANG MAI
Often called the Rose of the North, Chiang Mai is one of the few places in Thailand where it is possible to find in the heart of the city centuries-old chedis and temples next to modern convenience stores and boutique hotels.
It's a city with a beautiful cultural personality of its own. In addition, it's been blessed with much majestic beauty in nature.
The original city layout still exists as a neat square surrounded by a moat with vestiges of the fortified wall and its four main gates offering prime access to the old town.
With an altitude of about 310 meters above sea level, Chiang Mai is about 700 kilometers from Bangkok on the Mae Ping River basin. Surrounded by high mountain ranges, the city covers an area of approximately 20,107 square kilometers and is the country's second largest province. The city borders Myanmar on the north, Lamphun and Tak Provinces on the south, Chiang Rai, Lampang and Lamphun Provinces on the east and Mae Hong Son Province on the west. The terrain is mainly comprised of jungles and mountains, which are home to the hill tribes.
One of Chiang Mai's distinctive features is Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest peak, which is 2,575 meters above sea level.
Handicrafts of silk, silver and wood are timeless souvenirs for visitors. The people themselves are an unforgettable part of Chiang Mai. They are proud of the city's 700-year history.

Shopping Guide
SHOP TILL YOU DROP
After you've seen the sights of Chiangmai, it's time to indulge in some serious shopping, an activity that might take the whole day. This is so because there are so many things worth buying. From antiques to artifacts, celadon to silverware, there will always be something that will suit your fancy. Textiles, lacquerware, saa paper products, handicrafts, woodcarvings and so much more are all available in many shops.
Traditionally, bamboo is the preferred material for making several types of baskets and household utensils. These are among the most commonly sold items. As for antiques and excellent reproductions, Thapae Road is the place to go. Some shops here sell items of Burmese or Lao origin. These require a written permission from the authorities if they are to be exported.
When it comes to cotton, silk and other fabrics, choose from a variety of intricate designs created by weavers whose skills are incomparable. On Sankamphaeng Road, visitors can actually see them at work.
Hill tribe artifacts include jewelry, musical instruments, pipes and basketry. Several stalls in the Night Bazaar sell unique silver bracelets, necklaces, ceremonial bowls and other items. Check out also Wualai Road and Thapae Road
Some of the best teak woodcarvings adorn temples and Buddha images. There's also furniture and wall decor sold in Ban Tawai on the road to Hang Dong, which is the center of the industry.
Saa paper products can be found at the handicraft village of Bo Sang just east of Chiangmai. Umbrellas are the most easily recognizable products, although bags and stationery are now commercially produced.


BENJARONG, uniquely Thai handicraft
Benjarong is reflective of incredible workmanship, artistry and detailed designs
The word Benjarong literally means "five colors" in Thai. Using fine grit white clay, Thai artisans have been making these ornately decorated pieces by hand using skills handed down from one generation to another for centuries. They are usually painted with enamel and kiln dried. Most of them have floral motifs or cultural symbols, while some are accented with 18k gold.
There is no record as to when Benjarong production began in Thailand. But in the 18th century, Benjarong was exclusively used only in the Royal Court of Thailand. During the reign of Rama II, Thai artisans were producing Benjarong ware in Ayuthaya with most of them having the insignia of the Royal House.
Some designs on Benjarong ware depict ancient Indian mythological epics, a practice the Thai court inherited from the old Khmerr Kingdom. Favorite mythical creatures included Narasingha, a lion-hearted man; Kinnaree, a half-bird, half-human maiden; and Rajasiha, a fabulous lion. Designs then were symmetrical and repetitive and areas between creatures had flame or twisting vine patterns.
Today, Benjarong ware and ceramics are valued for their unique forms, designs, color schemes and sheer beauty. They are of the finest quality and are recognized by collectors around the world. These pieces come in various shapes that include vases, ginger jars, trinket boxes, dinnerware, tea sets and more. Sizes vary from tiny to large display pieces.

Benjarong is reflective of incredible workmanship, artistry and detailed designs. The cost of Benjarong depends on the number of hours and days needed by an artist or teams of skilled craftsmen to hand-paint individual pieces and full sets. Deft applications of color through single brush strokes result in a raised surface feel.
Several big and small factories in the provinces now make Benjarong to meet increasing local and international demand.
Benjarong products are available at several jewelry stores, handicrafts shops and department stores in Chiangmai.
Where to shop
- Heritage International Ltd. at 145-145/1 T. Sanklang, A. Sankampaeng (053-384559)
- Central Kad Suan Kaew Department Store on Huay Kaew Road, T. Suthep.
- Central Airport Plaza on Mahidol Road, T. Haiya.


COOL COTTON FABRIC
If silk is for the privileged, cotton is for the masses
High up in the mountains of Chiangmai's Jomtong district, villagers work endless hours harvesting cotton and turning them into the raw material used for making tapestries and clothes. Thus, it comes as no surprise that some of the best cotton garments can be found in this part of Thailand.

If silk is the preferred fabric of the privileged, cotton is used for making the daily wear of the masses.
There are a number of shops that sell cotton garments featuring unique designs. On Niemanhemin Soi 1 is See San Pan Mai, where Burmese and Lanna-style cloth as well as cotton are among the most sought after items. Thai-style wraparound skirts and Burmese longyi are displayed along with other ceremonial and formal clothes.
The new Northern Village zone at Central Airport Plaza is another place worth checking out for different fabrics. Several shops, including Jinapa, focus on traditional styles that have been altered a bit to suit today's demand for clothes that are comfortable and simple but reflective of culture.
Gong Shop on Loy Kroh Road is also visited often by tourists. It has an extensive selection of fabrics with different designs and patterns. There's always something for everybody. Even better, prices are reasonable.
For bargain hunters, there's the Gad Luang (Warorot) market, where fabrics made in Laos, China and Chiang Rai are sold wholesale before being transported to other shops in Chiang Mai.


Navigating around the
NIGHT BAZAAR
Knowing what to expect can greatly increase your chances of discovering the best buys
Undoubtedly, one of the most entertaining shopping experiences you can possibly have is at the Chiang Mai night bazaar on Changklan Road. Every night, small and large stalls open for business, selling everything you can imagine. Even if you don't buy anything, the experience of being there can be exhilarating. The merchandise sold includes clothes, toys, handicrafts, backpacks, CDs, videos and more. The fact is, everything can probably be bought at the night bazaar for the right price.
So how does one successfully navigate the alleys and bargain with the vendors? The key to seeing the most of the night bazaar given the limited time is coming up with a game plan before you even start. Knowing what to expect can also greatly increase your chances of discovering the best buys. There are usually three possible approaches to successful shopping at the night bazaar.
The first approach is for those who merely want to experience walking around the night bazaar. No preparation is really necessary. Once you have decided that you are just looking and not shopping, you can enjoy the sights, sounds and smells of the market. You will surely see something you did not expect and make an unintended purchase.
The second method is for those looking for the usual souvenirs. These can include Coca-Cola T-shirts, Buddha images and statues, elephants, chopsticks, cutlery, dining and kitchen ware. These products are available almost everywhere, and finding something unique will be quite difficult. With items such as these, it is best to walk around and visit a number of shops to find out the best price. Once you decide to buy something, don't forget to let the vendor have the final say as a sign of respect.
The third method is for those looking for distinct products, and finding them requires a little more preparation. The night bazaar does have a number of unique shops selling textiles, wooden items and other decorative products. The difficult part is to know where to go.
The main night bazaar shopping complex is the place to go for original products and shops here tend to have bigger display areas. It is divided into six sois, or lanes. Visit Areeya Designs near the front on Soi 6. Its products are all handmade and designed by Ning, the shop's owner. Her products are among the best. She spends time looking around town for traditional cloth with Thai and Indonesian styles. Once she has found patterns she considers unique, she comes up with a design. Among the shop's most popular items are lanterns, handbags, book covers and made-to-order shirts.
Another shop worth visiting is Four Merge Home Decor. Located near the middle of Soi 1, its specialty is bamboo candles that have different designs. There are also aroma therapy candles whose sizes range from small table top candles to huge six-feet tall bamboo poles that have four tiers. Simple yet refined, they come in many different colors, ranging from dark brown to fresh bamboo green.
Regardless of your intentions, a stroll through the night bazaar can be the shopping experience of your life.

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